In the Fold
Noela Figeuroa has a soft spot for the sandwich. The chef and owner of Fold Community Kitchen, which opened last year in Carbondale, sees sliced bread as the ideal vehicle for an interesting meal. “It’s a great way to pack a lot of flavors in,” she says. “You know how on Thanksgiving you save a last bite of everything? With a sandwich, you get that with every bite.”
Just don’t think ham and cheese on white here. While living in Seattle, Figeuroa apprenticed under William Leaman (his Essential Baking Company was the first American bakery to win the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie versus the French) and Daisley Gordon of Café Campagne. Fold’s sous-chef, Caroline Glover, did time at the Spotted Pig in New York.
The pair’s menu changes weekly (it’s posted on Fold’s Facebook page) and features close to ten sandwiches. Options might include goat cheese, avocado, dill pesto, celery, and alpine watercress on whole wheat or candied chile bacon, caramelized apple, and cheddar on house-made brioche. The great majority of the ingredients come from local farms and dairies. Try something with Fold’s pork—it’s raised on milk from Kinikin Corner Dairy in Montrose.
Though Fold is hidden in an industrial park off of Highway 133 (1909 Delores Way, 970-963-1163), valley epicures have quickly made it a regular for breakfast and lunch (Wednesday through Saturday) and brunch on Sunday. Figeuroa (above at left) and Glover recently started offering prix fixe dinners ($40) on Friday nights, and the reservations fill up quickly. Try a dish like braised rabbit in green garlic, cannellini beans, and white wine with a lovage pistou and you’ll understand why.