Three years ago, Bruce Berger set out to open a restaurant that reflected his passion for interesting food. Most of that ambition appeared on BB’s Kitchen’s dinner menu. Nevertheless, says Berger, breakfast and lunch became the more popular seatings, with dinner “getting lost in the shuffle.”

The restaurateur’s solution? A heaping plate of chutzpah with a side of cojones. Berger has killed off breakfast and lunch entirely (though he says the latter may return for summertime to make use of his space’s great deck), renamed his restaurant (now it’s just bb’s; yes, lowercase b’s), and dreamt up a whole new concept: globally inspired small plates that include kung pao sweetbreads, a shrimp toast sandwich, and citrus pork belly. For less adventurous, give-me-a-hunk-of-protein types, a “simply prepared” menu section offers chicken, steak, et al. The plan sounds quite tasty on paper, and one thing we can say for sure: Mr. Berger, you have our attention.