BUTTERMILK

There’s much more to Buttermilk than X Games hype, though certainly, all focus turns to that legendary multiday freestyle comp each January (this season, January 23–25). Aside from terrain parks, Aspen’s kindest, gentlest, and smallest mountain offers perfect slopes for novice and intermediate skiers and boarders, and a slew of kids-oriented tree trails and on-mountain play features (don’t miss Fort Frog). The area’s relatively compact size and three main lifts make it an easy place to navigate for preteens who want to explore with friends. It’s also a hub for Aspen’s thriving uphill-skiing scene (more on that below). Recently, a revamped base area debuted, with a new skier services building and redesigned restaurant. 

How to Ski: the terrain parks

The X Games superpipe draws attention at the bottom of the mountain, but there’s lots to explore for those who aren’t pro freestylers.

• Aspiring jibbers, young and old: Red’s Rover Park, which starts from the top of the West Buttermilk Express lift, is perfect for young groms and even adventurous parents. Among more than two dozen features are low-to-the-ground boxes and rails, banked turns, and smaller tabletop jumps that get progressively bigger—but not too big—down the trail. It’s easy to lap the park by reloading the lift at the mid-station. Also check out the bank track on Midway Avenue on main Buttermilk: Made entirely out of features carved in the snow, the park has berms for banking turns and small jumps. Then continue to the mini halfpipe on the next trail down, Baby Doe.

• Gettin’ jibby with it: Five terrain parks flow for two miles down Buttermilk’s front side, three in succession, followed by the two with the biggest features, side by side. From the top, Teaser ups the ante for those who have mastered Red’s Rover, with similar but larger features. Chuck’s and Jacob’s Ladder parks follow, with all kinds of things for stylie skiers and boarders to jib and jump off.

• Future pros: Spruce Park is the province of experts, those prepared to send jumps 35 feet or more and ride creative features. And then there’s X Park, home to the X Games slopestyle course and its 22-foot pipe. Shortly after the Games wrap in late January, the venue opens to the public—or at least those proficient enough to venture in.

Secret Stash

Buttermilk’s east side, known as Tiehack, has been an under-the-radar powder stash for years, and remains so. Granted, the runs aren’t the steepest or the longest, but if getting first tracks outweighs a terrain challenge, you’ll have a blast exploring Timber Doodle Glade or floating down Javelin. Plus, it’s easy to rack up vertical quickly by lapping the Tiehack Express lift.

Carving Nirvana

Finding wide-open trails for carving turns is a cinch at Buttermilk; stick to Tiehack or West Buttermilk for less skier traffic, especially on non-holiday weekdays. On Tiehack, Klaus’ Way (named for skiwear entrepreneur and local Klaus Obermeyer, who’s now in his 100s) to Racer’s Edge is steep enough to be fast and fun, while Buckskin to Eagle Hill is another great top-to-bottom cruiser. From the West Buttermilk chair, Westward Ho, Camp Bird, and Big Face Hollow all have sustained pitches, with enough room to allow ample space between turns.

Skiers Who Lunch

Gold Standard: You won’t find the type of fancy sit-down meals here as at the other three ski areas, but if you’re looking for exclusivity, inquire about the Buttermilk Mountain Lodge experience ($1,500), which delivers a family-style menu for up to eight people along with your own server.

Wallet friendlier: Among the most popular lunch options across all four ski areas, the Mongolian BBQ at the mountaintop Cliffhouse lets you customize your dish. For an Andrew Jackson, a chef will stir-fry your selection of veggies and/or meat on a large steel drum, then serve it on rice or soba noodles with one of six sauces (try hibachi ginger or spicy basil). 

What’s up with skiers going uphill on Tiehack?

Aspen’s four mountains have embraced uphilling: heading up the slope powered by your own quads, not the high-speed ones. Each mountain has its own designated routes, indicated on the trail map, but Tiehack is by far the most popular—some days it seems like more skiers are going up than down. Most uphillers use Alpine touring gear, e.g., skis with climbing skins on the bottom, lightweight boots, and bindings that free the boot heel for the way up and lock it down for the descent. Some use snowshoes or traction devices that slip onto hiking shoes. Friday mornings from late January through March, the Cliffhouse serves breakfast to uphillers, and three times a winter, on full-moon evenings, the restaurant hosts uphill dinners. Want to give it a try? Rent gear at the Ute Mountaineer in Aspen or Cripple Creek Backcountry at Aspen Highlands and, if you don’t have a premier pass, buy a season-long uphill pass for $69.

All About Après 

High Rollers: Behind Buttermilk Mountain Lodge, the Backyard hosts daily après with a menu that includes a signature burger (two locally raised beef patties with provolone, crisped pancetta, and a house-made balsamic tomato jam on brioche), and every Saturday a DJ spins tunes. Bonus: the close-up view of fearless young athletes throwing tricks in the superpipe.

Low Rollers: Home Team BBQ, in the Inn at Aspen, is a local favorite for hearty apps like smoked wings, brisket-topped nachos, and queso dip with chorizo, charred poblano, and grilled corn. Stake out a seat on the patio overlooking Buttermilk’s base or score a table inside and make an evening of it—the restaurant’s a popular dinner spot too.

Mountain Etiquette: Celeb Spotting 

During the holidays, celebs may be teetering on high heels along Aspen’s brick-lined pedestrian mall (we’re looking at you, Mariah Carey), but when it comes to skiing, they head west—to Buttermilk. That’s because so many of them only ski or board occasionally, and the ’Milk’s mellow slopes and low-key vibe are just right for following behind their private instructors. So, yes, you may spot Justin Bieber or Kendall Jenner in the line at the Summit Express or a Kardashian or two trying to remain inconspicuous on the slopes. And if you do? Just play it cool. Let the paparazzi be the only ones annoying them.